Thursday, February 12, 2009

Langa and more...

Hi!

Life in Cape Town has been great. We moved in with our homestay families on Saturday. Even though I was nervous and didn’t know what to expect, I am so happy I’m staying with my fam. We’re staying in Langa, the oldest township in Cape Town. It’s about 10 minutes outside the city, and very miniature size and cute. I lucked out because I’m in walking distance (and in sight) of 3 of my group members: Mike, Franny and Elizabeth. We’re not supposed to walk anywhere by ourselves, so it’s nice to be able to sprint over to each others’ houses if we want to hang out. If we do want to go to a friend’s house, we have to go with someone in the community, like a cici (sister) or buhti (brother). To go to my friend Kayla’s house which is considered far from me is only about a ten minute walk.

I’m living with my Mama, Tata (Dad- pronounced Dada) and buhti (brother), Ayunda (14 years old). He is their grandson and because his mom died (during child birth I think) he now lives with them. My Mama is so cute and welcoming. She made me feel at home immediately. The first night, she cooked chicken, bean salad, rice and salad for dinner. It was delic. South Africans eat EVERY part of the chicken, which I'm not used to, so on the second night when we were eating chicken again, she asked for my skin that I kept leaving over. Ew.. After dinner, I walked to Franny’s house where there were hundreds of people- family members and friends. In the Xhosa culture, when someone die, the family celebrates by drinking and dancing and hanging out. By time I got there at 6-ish, everyone was WASTED. There were some creepy old men trying to talk to you about god knows what, but there were also some really cool people around my age. Everyone was friendly and talkative- wanting to get to know us strange white people. Many came up to us to thank us for coming and taking the time to learn about their culture. Most couldn’t believe that we were staying in Langa. It is basically unheard of for Whites to go to Langa (or any other township), or to stay there, for that matter. Townships by the way are the communities where Blacks were relocated to during the apartheid era. Things are still SO segregated here, and people do not hesitate to be racist at any time of the day.

Langa is a great community- people are so friendly and willing to take the time to talk and get to know you if you say hi (or Molo, in Xhosa). Some parts of the town look run down and poor, but other parts are nice. After taking a tour of Langa, I realized (the whole group did, I think) that we are definitely living in the posh parts of town. We all live in comfortable homes with enough space for everyone (well, for the most part) and food on the table everyday. My house is very well decorated, and kept clean and neat, so you don’t feel cramped. The homestay has been great so far, and there is no doubt in my mind it has totally changed by experience so far. I was having a great time before, but this adds a whole new element and perspective. It’s hard to explain, but to be immersed in a new culture that I had never been exposed to and that is so looked down upon is amazing. We all got reactions from people after we told them that we are staying in Langa- surprised and confused that a group of White students would actually live in a township. Veryyy interesting.

On Sunday, I went to church with my Mama- a Baptist church. Besides the whole religious aspect, it was really cool and a great service. People are so passionate about God and the whole service was so lively and fun and emotional. It seems that many people are extremely influenced by God and his presence in their life. It was really interesting to witness.

Xhosa lessons have been going well. I’m trying really hard to “click” but my mouth is just not trained to make that noice. Not yet, anways. We’ve learned to introduce ourselves and ask how people are, etc. It’s coming along… When I came home on Tuesday, my Mama announced that I wasn’t allowed to speak English anymore so that was a bit of a shock, but I think I’ve improved already. Hopefully I’ll be able to hold up a conversation by time I leave Langa.

I’m starting to pick up on some cultural differences. For example, people gauge others’ happiness based on their weight and appetite. My Mama keeps offering me food and is surprised when I tell her I’m full. (Actually, she has started to serve me, instead of serving myself, and always gives me huge heapings of food. Another reason that I just joined a gym…). Apparently, the Mamas want to send you back to America fat to show that you are happy and had a good time. Uh oh.

I’m still loving the group. Besides some unnamed few, I really like them. We are all very different, (hate to be clichĂ©) but all bring something to the table. I’ve already made some really good friends that I feel completely comfortable with and am enjoying getting to know others. Because we're all scattered throughout Langa, I've been spending more time with new people that I don't know as well. It’s been great.

Three days ago after school, Mike, Elizabeth, Raissa, Franny and I organized a little soccer game with some kids in town. After 5 minutes we had 40 kids playing with us (3-14 years old)…including my brother. It was so much fun!

Yesterday was our “Langa” day- we had a Xhosa lesson and then toured the town and saw parts that we would not have normally seen. We went behind the scenes at a bry (barbeque), bakery (and saw a man make “fat bread” or fried bread), visited a pre-school where kids jumped ALL over us, and toured different homes. We had not been exposed to such poverty yet. In some “hostels,” 8 person families were sharing a small room with two beds and extra mattresses to put on the floor at night. There is a huge housing shortage and not enough affordable housing in Langa. After the tour, we ate at a great restaurant inside someone’s home in Langa, and devoured amazing African food. There was an African band playing while we ate which added to the whole experience. They even played a song from The Lion King. Ha. Done with lunch, we had the afternoon to ourselves to explore Rondebosch (the area where we take classes) or do some homework. I walked up to the University of Cape Town campus with Kayla, Maddie, Tess and Alexandra. None of us could get over the gorgeous campus (even though it’s still hard to compare with CU ;-) ). We wandered through the student center and between the ivy-covered buildings, and all felt like we were at the Harvard of South Africa.

Well, that’s it for now. I’ll post more later. I love and miss you and would love to hear from you. Hope all is well!


Love,

Nomhle (my new Xhosa name :-) )

4 comments:

  1. Nomgle, Molo!

    I am kind of a stalker with this blog.. I seriously relish every word you write. It's so interesting/weird/actually really great that people legit just come up to you and thank you for wanting to learn about their culture. That would NEVER happen in France... people are more like ew you're american go eat some McDonalds and get the eff out of my country before i throw some cheese at your face.

    is it that unsafe there that you really can't walk alone? please take pictures of your township for me!!!

    funny that happiness is gaged based on how much you eat and how different the food culture is in america. i would for sure thrive there, no question.

    aaaaaaaand i'm done.
    love you ;)

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  2. oh, and i meant nomhle, not nomgle. although i kind of like nomgle better, so i'm just going to call you that from now on.

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  3. i have one question...about this soccer game. did you or did you not teach the children that timeless american mantra "play hard, have fun, go lions?" if not, i'm thoroughly disappointed.

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  4. HIIII!!
    Holyyy crap so i just finished reading both your posts and I am kind of speechless! It sounds like you are having an amazing time and are with a good group of people (for the most part haha). Crazy you can't really walk anywhere by yourself, kind of freaky but I guess that makes the experience all the more real. It's great that you are living with a nice homestay fam and i'm really jealous i couldn't come over there and play some pick up sokka!
    Can't wait to hear more!
    love ya, kristin

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